Climbing to Lenin Peak in 2012 

Achik-Tash Base Camp will be active between 1st July and 10th September. 

Situated in the Pamirs mountains on the border between the Central Asian countries of Kyrgyzstan and Tadjikistan, close to the borders with China and Afghanistan , Lenin Peak is one of only five 7000 meter peaks.
At 7134 meters it is the third highest, the others being Peak Communism (H-7495) and Korzhenevsky (H-7105), both in the Pamirs mountains in Tadjikistan , and Peak Pobeda (H-7439) in the Kokshal-Too range and Khan Tengri (7010m) in the Tengri-Tag range in the Central Tien-Shan in Kyrgyzstan.
To climb all five admits you to the elite group of Russian climbers known as Snow Leopards.
Lenin Peak is considered the most accessible 7000-meter mountain. There is a high way going almost to the foot of the peak. Also Lenin Peak by the normal Razdelny route is practically no technical climbing involved.

Route Description for climbing to peak Lenin

Base camp Achiktash is situated on a raised meadow between two steep river valleys. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. From Base Camp we head over the Puteshestvennikov (Traveller) Pass (H-4400). The ascent usually takes 1 – 1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier at 4100 metres and hike to camp 1 at 4200 metres.
From Camp I “4400”, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000 meters we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelny Peak . A short climb up a scree and snow slope leads to Camp 2 “4200”. There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun. Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelny Peak (H-6148) . Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelny Peak the angle steeples.
The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelny Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks. Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir . From Razdelny Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 100 meters to Razdelnay Pass at 6000 meters . It is here that we will make camp 3.
From camp 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible. From here we will have two options. Either we climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6400 meters . From Camp III “Skovoroda” (H-5300) we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 4) at 6400 meters . We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit.
The summit at 7134 meters is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China . Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakoram.

The program with transport schedule
Transport schedule from Osh to Base Camp “Achik-Tash”
In July – 6, 13, 15, 20, 22, 23, 27, 29, 30
In August – 3, 5, 6, 7, 10, 12, 14, 19, 21, 26, 28. 

Pay attention, that the base program only for your attention. Unforeseen problems with a command are possible, there is a threat of weather changing. The base program includes some additional days of rest. 

The base program for 21 days for Ascent to peak Lenin

Day. Arrival in Bishkek, meet in the airport, transfer to hotel, accommodation, overnight.  
2 Day. Breakfast, transfer to airport, flight to Osh, meet in airport, transfer: Osh – Gulcha town – Sary-Tash village – Base Camp “Achik-Tash” (280 km, 8 – 9 hours). Overnight in the tents.
3 Day. Preparation day in the Base Camp.
4 Day. Acclimatization ascent to of Petrovskiy peak (H-4830) .
5 Day. Descent to the Base Camp.
6 Day. Hiking to the Camp I “4400”.
Day . Climb to the Camp II “Skovoroda” (H-5300).
Day. Climb to the Camp III “Razdelnay” (H-6100).
Day. Descent to the Camp I “4400”.
10 Day. Descent to the Base Camp (H-3600).
11 D ay. Rest day in ther Base Camp.
12 D ay. Preparation day.
13 Day. Hiking to Camp I “4400”.
14 Day. Climb to Camp II “Skovoroda” (H-5300).
15 Day. Climb to Camp III “Razdelnay” (H-6100).
16 Day. Climb to camp IV. “6400”.
17 Day. Ascent of the summit 7134 metres and descent to the Camp III. From top of Lenin peak the kind on peaks Muztag – Ata and Kongur which are located in China, peaks Communism and Korzhenevskoi which are located in Tadjikistan. Descent from top borrows nearby 14 – 16 hours.
18 Day. Descent to the Camp I.
19 Day. Descent to the Base Camp (H-3600).
20 Day. Transfer to Osh (280 km., 8 – 9 hours), arrival in Osh, accommodation in the hotel, overnight.
21 Day. Flight to Bishkek, meet in the airport, transfer to hotel, accommodation in a hotel

Attention! Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp. 

The price of ascentions to Lenin peak.
•  The price of the program «A full package» Bishkek – Lenin Peak – Bishkek – Euro 1160 per person

The price includes:
–    the permit to boundary zone,
– accommodation in high-altitude tents in camp II «Skovoroda 5300» and camp III «Razdelnaya 6100» (3 persons in one tent),
– OVIR registration,
–  meeting and seeing off at the airport,
–    all transfers according to the program,
–    the flight from Bishkek to Osh, flight from Bishkek to Osh and back (please note that local airlines allow only, 15 kilogram free of charge luggage! Extra kilogram costs about Euro 0,5,
–    accommodation in the hotels with breakfasts (in Osh and Bishkek, only 4 nights),
–    the lunch on the way to Base camp from Osh and from Base Camp to Osh,
–    rent the portable radio station (walkie-talkie),
–    the registration with rescue team in Base Camp,
–    ecological fee.

2. The price of the program «A full package» Osh – Peak Lenin – Osh – Euro 1280 p\pax. 

The price includes:
–   permit to frontier zone,
– accommodation in high-altitude tents in camp II «Skovoroda 5300» and camp III «Razdelnaya 6100» (3 persons in one tent),
– OVIR registration,
– meeting and seeing off at the airport
–   all transfers according to the program
– accommodation in the hotels with breakfasts (only 4 nights)
–   lunch on the way to Base camp from Osh and from Base Camp to Osh
– see services in Base Camp and Camp 1
– ecological fee,
–  the registration with rescue team in Base Camp,
–  rent the portable radio station (walkie-talkie)/  

Services in the base camp “Achik Tash” (H-3600):
•  accommodation and overnight in the double tents. Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms and electricity.
•  the meals – full board,
•  the Guide – consultant’s services,
•  the medical aid in the Base Camp (professional doctor)
•  electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity
– use of a dining room, a toilet, a left-luggage office, a bath and a shower,

Services in the Camp I “4400”:
•  accommodation and overnight in double tents with mattresses and wooden platforms,
•  the meals – full board,
•  the Guide – consultant’s services,
•  the medical kit,
•  electricity 220V, 50 HZ
•  use of a dining room, a toilet, a left-luggage office, a bath and a shower.

The cost does not include:
•  the cost of Kyrgyz visa,
•  international flight,
•  all optional deviations from the main itinerary,
•  beverages and meals not included in main menu,
•  all personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.),
•  the services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending, the rent of mountaineering,
•  equipment for ascending.