• Information on expeditions to the summits of Kazakhstan
• M - 1. Climbing of Talgar peak (H-5017). Kazakhstan.
• M - 2. Climbing of Belukha peak (H-4506). Kazakhstan.
• M - 3. Expedition to Marble Wall (H-6400)

M - 2
Climbing of Belukha peak (H-4506). Kazakhstan.

UNESCO has proposed the region of Altai mountains as an ecologically clean region of the world.

Geographical location. The highest summit of Altai mountains Belukha (Muztau) peak is situated in the eastern part of Katunskiy range. It stretches for more than 150 km from west to east and for more than 60 km from north to south. The mountain itself has two summits: Western Belukha (H-4440 m) and Eastern Belukha (H – 4506 m). North-western slopes of the mountain belong to East Kazakhstan region and South-eastern slopes belong to Altai region of Russia. Glaciers go down to the height of 2600 m. The following glaciers are on the north-western slopes of Belukha mountain:

Climate in the region of Belukha mountain. Climate in the region is strong continental. The coldest months in the north are January and February. Average monthly temperature is from 17 to 24 minus Centigrade in the high hollows and from 14 to 17 minus Centigrade in the mountains of South part. The warmest month is July, average monthly temperature is from 14 to 16 plus Centigrade. In July at height of 1000 – 1500 m temperature may reach 0° C. Summer is the time when moist winds blow from West and North-east. Precipitations in summer reach 2200 mm. In July there may be up to 17 sunny days, in September up to 14.
Route and difficulties of climbing. The climbing routes to Belukha mountain are from 3A to 5B categories of difficulty, depending on the technical and physical fit. All routes include parts of rocks and ice. From the south part there is the most interesting route to Belukha, which was not accessible for the foreign climbers until 1989. Belukha mountain can be compared with the other world summits of the same type on the difficulty and other conditions of climbing. In some points it reminds McKinley.  Slope steepness is from 20° to 45°. In 1998-99 Kazakh climber Nina Engel worked out a supertraverse of Belukha massive: Berelskyi glacier – Delone summit – Eastern summit of Belukha (H-4506) – Berelskyi Saddle pass (H-3600) – Akkemskaya Wall (descent and ascent) – Western summit of Belukha (H-4440) – Black glacier – Rassypnoi waterfall – base camp.
From the base camp № 1 on Katun river we start moving on the moraine along the river to its source – “Grotto”. It is an ice cave. Then we continue to Geblera glacier (3 km). Going out to the glacier. Then ascent to the ridge. From the ridge we can see a beautiful moraine lake. Belukha reflects in it. On the ridge we come up to the middle of the glacier. Passing by the crevasses we reach the ice fall (5 km). There are a lot of crevasses here, that is why it is better to pass through this area early in the morning.
Camp № 2 is set up in the middle of the glacier. Night in tents.  Early in the morning we continue moving on the ridge upwards. Lots of crevasses. Beginning of the route is from the center, up the glacier (2 km), turn to the right. Then we need to find a pass to Razdelnyi range. Living the glacier to the right we move on the ridge and go out to the place called “Blue balcony” (H-3000). It is a good place to set up a camp № 3. Night.  Route “Blue balcony” – “Saddle” (H-4000). Start moving on the center of the glacier. Turn to the left, under TKT pass. The glacier changes here every year. The area here is quite dangerous due to often stonefalls. In 1,5 km we start looking for a camping camp № 4. Night. Climbing to the Eastern summit of Belukha (H-4506) on the chosen routes. We cross over the saddle between Western and Eastern Belukha and come out to the most difficult part of the route. Climbing up almost on vertical, passing by the  bergschrund. We fix six ropes. Going out to the flat place, time for rest and snack, then continue climbing of the summit. Normally this climbing camp – summit – camp takes 5-6 hours. One day is needed to come back to the base camp on Katun river near Rassypnoi waterfall.
Climbing history. The first and unsuccessful attempt of climbing to Belukha was taken in 1907 by brothers Gebler, Shepetov and their guides Yuvenalyi Arkhipov and Prokopyi Subbotnik. In  winter 1909 another attempt was taken by the group of British climbers, guided by Mr. Terner. Extremely cold weather and deep snow made climbing impossible.  In 1914, on July 26 brothers Boris and Michail Tronov climbed Belukha successfully. Such climbers as Boris Delone, Igor Tamm, Boris Soustin, Reinhold Messner also climbed Belukha in their times.

How to come to Ust-Kamenogorsk.

1. There are daily flights Almaty – Ust-Kamenogorsk. Flight time is 2 hours. Arrival time to Ust-Kamenogorsk is 22.00 – 23.00.
2. Distance from Almaty to Ust-Kamenogorsk may be also covered by car (1100 km) on the asphalt road.
3. Train Almaty – Zaschita (railway station in Ust-Kamenogorsk)  departs from Almaty  daily at 12.06 AM. Duration - 31 hour 43 min.  It is possible to reach Zhangiztobe railway station by above train (arrival time at 7.00 AM) and further to go  by autotransport to Ust-Kamenogorsk. Distance Zhangiztobe – Ust-Kamenogorsk – 150 km.

The program:

• Duration - 16 days
• Accommodation - hotel  - 3 nights,  tents – 12 nights
• Category of difficulty -  AAAA
• Season -  July – September. Best time is from July 20 to September 1

“Day by Day”

Day 1. Arrival in Almaty. Meeting at the airport, transfer to the hotel “Otrar”, accommodation. Rest. Breakfast. City sightseeing: visit to the 28 Panfilov’s guardsmen park, Cathedral, Museum of national musical instruments, National museum, Medeo gorge, Republic square (4 hrs.). Lunch at the cafe.  Departure to Ust-Kamenogorsk. Meeting at the airport, transfer to the hotel “Ust-kamenogorsk” **, accommodation. Dinner at local cafe. Overnightt at the hotel.

Day 2. Breakfast. Transfer: Ust-Kamenogorsk – Yasevoe lake (H-1760) (430 km). There are 20 km from Berel village to Yasevoe lake. Lunch on the way. We reach the lake in the evening. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Day 3. Breakfast. Foot passage: Yasevoe lake – Lower Saddle pass (H-1970) – Sersembai winter cabin (H-1600) (7 km). We ferry two rivers – White and Black Berel. From the lake we go up a not high pass between the Altai taiga, then go down to the valley of Black Berel river. Another small pass and we reach Sarsembai cabin. Lunch on the way. Dinner. Night in tents.

Day 4. Breakfast. Foot passage: Sarsembai cabin – Katun river – Upper Saddle pass
(H-2700) – Rassypnoi waterfall. Visit to the waterfall. Lunch on the way. Setting up of the base camp. Dinner. Overnight in tents.

Days 5 – 10. Climbing to Belukha summit.

Day 11. Breakfast. Return to the base camp on Katun river. Lunch on the way. Dinner. Night in tents.

Day 12. Breakfast. Foot passage: Rassypnoi waterfall – Upper Saddle pass – Sarsembai winter cabin (7 km). Lunch on the way. Dinner. Night in tents.

Day 13. Breakfast. Foot passage: Sarsembai winter cabin – Lower Saddle pass – Yasevoe lake (H-1760) (7 km.). Lunch on the way. Dinner. Night in tents.

Day 14. Breakfast. Transfer: Yasevoe lake – Ust-Kamenogorsk (430 km.). On the way it is possible to visit Berelskie archaeological excavations. Lunch on the way. Accommodation at the hotel “Ust-Kamenogorsk” **. Dinner at local cafe. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 15. Breakfast. Sightseeing of the city (3-4 hours). Lunch at café. Flight Ust-Kamenogorsk – Almaty. Arrival in Almaty. Meeting at the airport, transfer to the hotel “Otrar” ****. Dinner at the restaurant “Otrar”. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 16. Departure from Almaty.

Cost of the program: ($)

Cost includes: visa support in Kazakhstan; all land transfers; meeting and seeing off at the airport: services of interpreter: cook and his helper; accommodation at hotels in Almaty and Ust-Kamenogorsk (double rooms with breakfast); sightseeing in Almaty and Ust-Kamenogorsk: entry fees: ecological taxes; police registration; special permits; tents in the base camp on double basis; matrases; full board in the cities and in the base camp; packed lunch on the way; kitchen stuff in the base camp; guide consultations; radio connection with the base camp while climbing; 1 horse per person to carry personal gear and camping outfit to the base camp and back; gas for the gas cartridges; bottled water on transfers
1,5 l/day/person.

Single supplement – $ 136

Almaty – Ust-Kamenogorsk flight ticket - $ 191 (economy class)
Ticket cost and timetable are subject to changes.

Cost doesn’t include: High-altitude tents for climbing; high-altitude food; special climbing gear; High-altitude porters; electricity and sauna in the base camp; emergency helicopter flights; tips; insurance and other medical subcosts; additional excursions, not mentioned in the program; personal extras like luggage overweight; laundry, phone, fax, e-mail services; alcohol drinks; mini bar and other extra services at the hotels.

Additional information:

1. Most part of the road from Ust-Kamenogorsk to Yasevoe lake is with asphalt coverage. Only the last 60 km has no asphalt. This is the part from Uryl village where the documents are checked to get into the border zone. On the whole road we use 4WD vehicles, without A/C.
2. If you decide to take a helicopter flight from Ust-Kamenogorsk to Katun village you should inform the company at least 2 days prior the flight. This service is offered for additional cost. Flight time Ust-Kamenogorsk – base camp – Ust-Kamenogorsk is 2 hours. Same time when you finish the program.
3. Your personal gear and camping outfit from the Yasevoe lake to base camp and back will be carried by horses. 1 horse is offered for 1 person, it may carry up to 60 kg.
4. You can hire an additional horse to ride from the sanatorium to the base camp and back.
5. It is possible to buy a high-altitude food in the base camp.
6. Due to expeditionary way of climbing there will be no sauna or shower in the base camp. Electric generator for the electric power will not be provided.

Additional services:

• Cost of 1 hour of helicopter flight on MI-8-MTV is $2000
• Personal guide - $60 per day
• High-altitude porter - $45 per day
• Additional horse for riding - $60 per day
• Additional horse to carry the luggage - $60 per day